California: Los Angeles, Part 3

10 May 2022

Many years ago, when I lived in Irvine, I went up to what was then “The Getty”, in Malibu. A lot can change in 40 years and I was a bit confused when I mentioned The Getty in Malibu—that is now referred to as The Getty Villa, with it’s sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean and it’s classic architecture with promenades framed by tall white columns. It’s no wonder it made such an impression on me all those decades ago!

As we were wandering around the LA freeways, we saw this massive white structure up on top of one of the local mountains and that, indeed, was The Getty (the Art Museum and Gardens, now commonly referred to as “The Getty” or “The Getty Center”). It was massive and impressive and kind of glowed in the late afternoon sun.

When you arrive, you park your car in the parking structure; we were five floors below ground (it goes 7 floors deep). Parking was $20; $15 if you arrive after 3 pm. There was no charge for the museum itself. Your reservation (even though it’s free, you have to have a reservation) is checked, along with your bag if you have one, and you walk through an airport-style security screener, then wait for the tram for the ride up the mountain. It all was very organized and because of the reservation system, there was no waiting.

The tram ride was fun and the view up to the entry courtyard was impressive. The round and ascending stairs in the interior of the welcome center reminded me of the Guggenheim Museum of Art in NYC (that is on my List of places I want to go!).

The galleries were very open; the ones on the second floor had natural, although not direct, light through computer controlled louvers in the high ceilings. We saw old stuff, sculpture, decorative pieces, furnishings, paintings and photography. After wandering through multiple levels of multiple galleries in multiple buildings, we walked around the gardens. I loved that. Lush plantings around a cascading fountain that emulated a mountain stream. The switchback trails crossed over it multiple times on the way to the central formal maze garden. Lots of places were built in for sitting and contemplation. Many folks were sitting on the lawn outside of the gallery buildings and just taking in the spectacular views of mountains and Los Angeles sky scrapers.

We didn’t see everything but we did see a LOT. The day was clear and sunny but not hot—it was perfect. I’d love to go back again some day.

The Getty: The Architecture

The buildings themselves, along with the walkways are made of Italian travertine, imported from just outside of Rome. I loved all the glass, some aluminum, the angles and the sight lines. I think everything was amazingly well thought-out. Lines and angles and curves. I read that you can see from the Pacific to Palm Springs, and while skeptical, I would like to think it might be possible. I’d love to see it at dawn and dusk because I’m quite sure that it would appear completely different at each of those times than it did mid-day when we saw it.

 

After checking in, we proceeded to the platform to ride the computer-controlled tram to the top.

The walkways and buildings are made of 230 lb blocks of travertine. It has air pockets in it and if you tap on it, it has a tone. THAT was fun!

Rocks in the fountains represent boulders from the local mountains, bringing the mountain to the museum.
I told Dan that those boulder pieces kind of remind me of the Noguchi sculpture garden in Costa Mesa.

Light and shadow on the patio

Our tram to take us back down the mountain to our parked vehicle came just as we walked up

More light and shadow; this time in the Museum Entrance Hall.

The Getty: Glimpses in the Galleries

One of the first things we saw, I thought this bust was marvelous.

Wood inlay table top (you’d better use a coaster under your drink!).

I wish I knew what this was and who did it. It was hanging from the ceiling in the special retrospective exhibit of the photography of Imogen Cunningham. I did this crop on the piece that to me looks like a tumbleweed because it emphasized the contrast between light and shadows, one of my favorite things. 

Paul Mpagi Sepuya, Mirror Study. Playing with perception, Sepuya tore and sliced his own photographs and affixed them to a mirror, then photographed himself holding the pieces in place.

An early microscope and it’s case with accessories. 

Monet: “Weeping Willow and Lily Pond”

Van Gogh: “Irises”

I spent quite a bit of time just looking at this wood carving. The dead bird. The bird’s nest, the chain on the pocket watch. The veins in the leaves. The depth. Carved from a single piece of wood, in response to “tumultuous political events of the French Revolution.” On September 14, Louis XVI had taken an oath to support a new constitution. This relief, by Albert Henri-Joseph Parent, links a medallion of the Roman emperor Hadrian, symbolizing the French king, with a medallion of the Roman Senate, symbolizing the French National Assembly. The hope was that a reformed and constitutional France could coexist with an enlightened Louis XVI.

“Starry Night” by Munch, the fellow who painted “The Scream”

One of the sculpture galleries

Gardens at The Getty

The Getty Center gives garden tours along with architecture tours and tours through the galleries. The gardens blended in seamlessly with the architecture and the mountain. They were great!

I love this one because you can see the cacti and LA and beyond LA, more LA. The air now is noticeably cleaner than it was when I lived out here in SoCal (1980-84).

A view near the top of the switchbacks on our way down to the central garden.

The Central Garden

This is the stream fountain that is close to going over it’s little waterfall, near the bottom of the path.

The large arbors, covered with 4 colors of bougainvillea, were quite controversial. The architect did not want them to be so large, but the garden designer fought for these. They really are a focal point, along with the central formal garden. With four kinds of bougainvillea, at least one of them is blooming at any given time of year.

Here you can see the little waterfall from the stream fountain.

This may or may not be part of the herb garden. We did not see every single thing,
but I know there is an herb garden here too.

I know I’m forgetting a bunch of stuff that I wanted to include about this museum and gardens. It was really a spectacular place. Although there has been controversy about some of the acquisitions, I can’t help but feel grateful that Getty wanted to be able to share the fruits of his wealth in perpetuity. This will surely be a highlight of the trip (along with visits with friends and that slot canyon hike!).

Tomorrow we head out to Laughlin, Nevada and therefore can add one more sticker to our US map of states in which we’ve stayed overnight. Stay tuned!